According to Reuters, the raids, carried out by Milan’s Carabinieri labour unit, also targeted Brunello Cucinelli, Etro, Goyard Italie, Jacob Cohen Company, Moncler and Stefano Ricci. Prosecutors said the companies are not under criminal investigation, nor have they been placed under judicial administration. Instead, authorities are seeking documents relating to corporate governance and supply chain controls after links emerged between the brands and subcontractors already under investigation.
According to Milan prosecutor Paolo Storari, as reported by Reuters, the investigation centres on Chinese-owned workshops suspected of exploiting undocumented workers, with allegations including excessive working hours, poor living conditions, labour law violations and inadequate health and safety measures. Investigators believe some of the workshops produced packaging materials, including garment bags and pouches, for luxury brands.
The latest searches follow a similar operation in December 2025, when authorities requested information from 13 luxury brands after uncovering alleged labour abuses within their supply chains. Previous investigations led to temporary judicial administration for several companies, including Loro Piana, before those measures were lifted after improvements to supply chain oversight were implemented.
Brunello Cucinelli said in a statement that he was “surprised and deeply saddened” that materials intended for its packaging were found to have been produced in unsuitable workplaces despite supplier checks. According to Reuters, he has pledged full cooperation with authorities. Chanel has also confirmed it is cooperating with investigators and said it terminated its relationship with a subcontractor after receiving an alert over possible labour abuse in May.
The investigation forms part of a broader effort by Milan prosecutors to examine labour practices across Italy’s luxury fashion industry, with more than 20 brands now having come under scrutiny since the probe began in 2024.
